Since a very young age, I have possessed a special interest in what I think I might call The Way Things Were. How that looks has manifested in different ways. When I was six and seven, it meant intense curiosity about life for white settlers in North America in the 1800s, and especially Laura Ingalls Wilder. Most recently it has manifested in extatic interest surrounding plate tectonics and volcanism, especially in the Cascades in Washington state. I have a piece of artwork in my small studio, supplied by my parents, depicting the Cascades in Washington, including elevations of prominent peaks, and denoting the five active/potentially active stratovolcanoes, listed north to south: Mt. Baker, Glacier Peak, Mt. Ranier (Tacoma/Tahoma to our Indiginous people), Mt. Adams, and Mt. St. Helens. I have also done some cursory research about extinct volcanos in Washington and a tiny bit about volcanism in Oregon, but I was too overwhelmed to add much data to my mental files. For how much the subject interests me, I have very little data to share.
I really like to put things in mental boxes, to sort, and categorize. Only...when I dive into a topic, I find it is more complex than I ever thought. That can push me off it or make me hang onto the boxes too tightly for a time out of disappointment. But when I lean into the reality, the complexity breaks down my assumptions and prejudices and sends me joyfully reeling deeper into data collection. Along these lines, volcanism is way more widespread, varied, complex, chance-associated, important to life on this planet, and descriptively organic than I thought possible from my first grade science unit on the topic, and our recent visit to Mt. Mazama opened up even more of this nature to me. I am disappointedly and happily reeling.
Once when Jared and I flew from Portland to the L.A. area for a workshop, it was clear and sunny, and I excitedly picked out various Cascade stratovolcanos from the air. Mt. Mazama was unbelievably impressive with a caldera five to six miles in diameter, and I knew I would want to see this behemoth which produced the largest volcanic explosion in the U.S. in the last 500,000 years, in person - on the ground.
Anne mentioned some time back that she wanted to go camping at Crater Lake (the more common name for Mt. Mazama), and when she makes a request like that which aligns with parental desires, it is worth trying to make it work. As it is a pretty long haul from our house, we determined it would be best to do it from Jared's parents' house, as they are more or less the half-way point. We were conveniently stowed away with them during the Newburg week. And so very grateful that they and the kids have a wonderful relationship and that they were willing to engage with our kids for all the hours we were away each day!
...As much as I love nature adventures, I am not much able to specifically plan them far enough in advance to reserve camping spots 6 months ahead... which left us with first-come-first-served spots on a holiday weekend. But ever hopeful, we set off with enough water for two nights and gratefully secured a quiet spot just 13 miles from the park entrance, in the Umpqua National Forest.
I carefully kept in mind that this particular adventure was for certain particular people, and that we did not plan all the kid details well, and that certain inconveniences cannot always be forseen. So I expected some disregulation and sadness amongst the younger three, knowing what some of the "unlucky" behaviors might present and enacted Plan C's as we went to help mitigate my own lack of preparation. (Since I started learning about it, I am SO glad to have Dr. Ross Greene's Collaborative Proactive Solutions framework in my thought process - on so many levels. As I learn more I am able to be so much more understanding of what might be going on when people are having a hard time - myself included - and am better able to move toward helpful solutions. Getting curious rather than angry, and problem-solving rather than retaliating, is such a relief, when I manage to do it!)
Some of the things which caused disregulation:
Long car ride
Not knowing which campground would be our end point
Mosquitoes and more mosquitoes and more mosquitoes
Itchy mosquito bites
Hyper-empathy for mosquitoes, as well as for other insects, plants, fungus, sticks, rocks, and pieces of trash (It wasn't me, but I feel it in my bones!)
Fear of the dark
Heat
Not having preferred foods with us
Waiting an hour in the 100-degree .heat to drive through the entrance gate to the national park
Not having the ability to arrange a backpacking trip
Not knowing exactly when a parent would return from a hike
Getting stuck on a dead-end road on the wrong side of a parked train
So there were some difficult reactions to all this, and some solutions. Three of the solutions worked really well. The others were OK at best.
But on to the good stuff:
Let's talk about the largest volcanic eruption in the lower 48 in the last 500,000 years. (I assume most people head over to see the beauty of the lake - the color is quite intense, and due to the size of the caldera, it is the deepest lake in the US. I did take some pictures, but mostly I was interested in the volcanic data.) There were people living in the area under 8000 years ago when it happened, and it's in their oral tradition. It was not the last eruption of Mt. Mazama, but certainly the largest. Mazama has been erupting for close to 500,000 years itself, and the remains of an eroded cindercone in the caldera, dating back around 400,000 years is visible. The plumbing for the stratovolcano is still potentially active, and there are several cindercones in the lake and on the flanks. This particular eruption in 5000-something BCE was so large that the ash could have buried the entire state of Oregon 8 inches deep, and ash traveled around the globe. The mountain is believed to have lost 5000 feet of height in the ensuing collapse, which would have taken hours at least and a few days at most.
And here is the exciting part. I got a chance to hike alone along part of the rim. As I looked out this way and that, I would say to myself, "That looks like a stratovolcano." "That looks like a shield volcano." "That is obviously a cindercone. " "That mountain has an odd shape; I wonder what it is." And, I had enough phone connectivity to search for these points of interest on Google maps, most especially using my preferred terrain and satellite modes. As I positively identifid various features, I was able to hop over to Wikipedia and get a sense of their histories. I came back from the two hour hike with the realization that every single hill and peak I could see in that part of the High Cascades is either an extinct volcano or a potentially active one. This seems to be different from the stretch of the Cascades in Washington. Although that sector has been a volcanic ridge for untold millions of years, including when a chunk of it bordering on Renton which left major coal depoaits was its own large island plate that drifted from Southeast Asia and docked with the Okanogan plate to become part of North America, most of the mountain features there seem to be uplift with the occasional stratovolcano. Anyway, this is all very exciting and mind-reeling, and I want to look again at the list of calderas for the Yellowstone Hotspot, as the North American plate has drifted over it for untold eons, and there is evidence of major eruptions in a line from its current location as a National Park, all the way back into Oregon, and though that is far more ancient than anything visible in the Mt. Mazama region, which only dates back to the Pleistocine on the whole. Though it is said that the region is built on much older shield volcanos, also derived from the subduction of the Juan de Fuca plate.
Anne yelled at me several times to stop hyperventilating over volcanos. And as annoyed when I laughed.
Other good things:
At night, we could see stars, the full moon, and satellites.
Also, the number of bats flying around after dark in the woods was truly spectacular, and it was a joy to see them flapping by our noses rapidly, precisely, and nearly silently.
I learned that the occasional light tan, cement-looking rock along the Umpqua River Highway, which at points obliterated the view of the darker, redder, more obviously volcanic rock on the cliff sides was from the massive pyroclastic flows associated with Mazama's most spectacular eruption.
There was a lot of snow near the rim at Crater Lake, which provided many hours of fun and cooler temperatures for the younger set on a hot day, while the adults took turns hiking.
Our campsite was above 4500 feet, and I met some wildflowers I had never seen before.
On the way back to Jared's parents' my cemetary-loving 4-year-old requested a stop at a tiny hillside cemetary in the tiny town of Wilbur on the side of Highway 99. There was a pioneer cemetary enclosed within it, and I found a headstone dating to 1859. This hillside spot on a gravel track is where we got stuck waiting for a parked train. I found this very exciting, but some other of our party felt otherwise. It was hot, but there was shade from mature trees and a strong breeze.